Overall - expensive, but fascinating and well worth all the savings spent
Easter island turned out to be a quite an expensive place, because it is so remote and most of the foods, things have to be brought in by plane. So expect to pay for everything, and quite a lot. You pay a lot to get here, accommodation, to visit the sites, to eat, drink, to go to wc, to use WiFi (at the campsite Mihinoa where I stayed it wasn't free of charge). Nevertheless, the feeling there is as you are on the edge of the world and in the middle of the earth at the same time. And where else is the gate at airport outside, with this view?
Easter island turned out to be a quite an expensive place, because it is so remote and most of the foods, things have to be brought in by plane. So expect to pay for everything, and quite a lot. You pay a lot to get here, accommodation, to visit the sites, to eat, drink, to go to wc, to use WiFi (at the campsite Mihinoa where I stayed it wasn't free of charge). Nevertheless, the feeling there is as you are on the edge of the world and in the middle of the earth at the same time. And where else is the gate at airport outside, with this view?
When coming to Easter island -take food with you from mainland. Whatever it is -empanadas, cheese, rice..
when travelling I usually tend to search for off the beaten track gems. This time it has been difficult, as the island is small, and during the short stay of 5 days i had to manage to visit all must sees. I managed to be alone on Rano Kau, on Rano Raraku, by Ahu Tongariki.. so just be there either early in the morning or later in the afternoon.
Rano kau
Rano in rapanui language stands for volcano. There are 2 volcanos on teh island - Rano Kau and Rano raraku . Rano kau is located on a near end of the island from Hanga roa village. I actually went up there on the first evening we arrived to the island. And then again on 26.11. to see the Orongo village, where so called birdman ritual was happening.
And frankly this is the most interesting part of the village - the story of the Birdman ritual. How the representatives of the clan had to climb down the 250m cliffs in to the ocean, then swim the ocean full of sharks for 1.5 km to the small isles, then wait there for the first egg laid by the bird and bring it back to the village. The winner clan could get access to the eggs of the birds that year. The winner could grow the nails and hair for 5 months without cutting,and lived in a seclusion for a year.
The homes the participants were living in are very low, I could not imagine they fit in there. And for sure, they weren't claustrophobic.
Rano in rapanui language stands for volcano. There are 2 volcanos on teh island - Rano Kau and Rano raraku . Rano kau is located on a near end of the island from Hanga roa village. I actually went up there on the first evening we arrived to the island. And then again on 26.11. to see the Orongo village, where so called birdman ritual was happening.
The path to the Rano Kau is going mainly through woods, closer to top was just lot of bushes. I would not advice to go up the hiking trail with a bike (I saw a guy doing that), as the trail is quite steep at times and there are lot of roots of trees sticking out of the ground, which makes it very uncomfortable to push the bike along.
When i got up the volcano, it was very windy up there and gets chilly if you stand on one spot. I went to the right side, all the way up to Orongo village. I did soak into the volcano crater views, as too me it looked magical, like from different world.
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| The peninsula where Rano Kau is located |
The lake in the middle is pretty overgrown, the sides of the crater are very steep so you can't really getclose to the lake.
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| Rano Kau |
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| Motu nui (the biggest isle), Motu Iti (the small), Motu Kau Kau (the stack of cliffs) |
And frankly this is the most interesting part of the village - the story of the Birdman ritual. How the representatives of the clan had to climb down the 250m cliffs in to the ocean, then swim the ocean full of sharks for 1.5 km to the small isles, then wait there for the first egg laid by the bird and bring it back to the village. The winner clan could get access to the eggs of the birds that year. The winner could grow the nails and hair for 5 months without cutting,and lived in a seclusion for a year.
The homes the participants were living in are very low, I could not imagine they fit in there. And for sure, they weren't claustrophobic.
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| The house "cut in the middle" to see how low it was |
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| the entry in the "house". From its width, i assume the locals where very thin. |
Rano Raraku
This volcano is located almost at the other end of the island. I got there by biking. It took me around 1hr 40min, and the distance was approx. 20km. The road would be quite easy, unless there wasn't crosswind.
This crater is different from the Rano Kau. It resembles peace, it is so lively, because loads of wild horses walk around there. the lake in the middle looks like a real lake, with reed growing a long the bank.
Atmosphere : peaceful.
The many moai that are scattered on the outer side of the volcano crater look like they are settled quite comfortable in the ground.
The whole walking distance here for me was 2.4 km. But make sure you get plenty of time to sit down and just watch those bug guys.
and make sure you have a pretty good sunscreen or wear long sleeved shirt, pants. I did not so am paying for that.
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| inside the Rano Raraku volcano crater |
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| inside the Rano Raraku volcano crater |
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| outside the Rano Raraku |
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| the big, unfinished Moai |
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| the view of quarry where 95% of Moai have been made |
Ahu Tongariki
Ahu means "burial place". So they are to be treated with utmost respect and never should be stepped on. The ahus are scattered everywhere on the island, some of them still have Moai statues on top.
Ahu Tongariki is the biggest in number of standing Moai. There are 13 big statues at the seaside so gracefully, and are very popular to be photographed on sunrise. We actually managed to wake up and go with the car for sunrise to the other end of the island. The sunrise here is in fact quite late -around 7 am or so. Thus very reasonable to get up.
When we got at Ahus, there were so many people already, that it seemed we will be on the "last row". Most were playing it tough => bringing tripods and colorful papers for lenses.
Unfortunately (or thankfully) sky was very cloudy and we managed to get some "firing" sky photos.
Ahu Tongariki is the biggest in number of standing Moai. There are 13 big statues at the seaside so gracefully, and are very popular to be photographed on sunrise. We actually managed to wake up and go with the car for sunrise to the other end of the island. The sunrise here is in fact quite late -around 7 am or so. Thus very reasonable to get up.
When we got at Ahus, there were so many people already, that it seemed we will be on the "last row". Most were playing it tough => bringing tripods and colorful papers for lenses.
Unfortunately (or thankfully) sky was very cloudy and we managed to get some "firing" sky photos.
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| sunrise @ Ahu Tonġariki |
Playa Ovahe
Both of the sandy beaches of the island are close to each other. You can't miss Anakena, because the road leads there. Ovahe is more difficult to get, as there is a dirt road which you should take and no signs that show when to turn to the coast. For me Nokia maps were of much help, as it shows exactly where to turn.
Both of the sandy beaches of the island are close to each other. You can't miss Anakena, because the road leads there. Ovahe is more difficult to get, as there is a dirt road which you should take and no signs that show when to turn to the coast. For me Nokia maps were of much help, as it shows exactly where to turn.
I find go by bike there, right after visiting Rano Raraku and Ahu Tongariki.
To get to the sandy beach you have to go along the ocean to the left, pass a burial place, then climb over stack of lava stones, and here you have a small sandy beach. To me it seemed it is better to stay on the shore instead of swimming there because the waves were pretty mad there.
To get to the sandy beach you have to go along the ocean to the left, pass a burial place, then climb over stack of lava stones, and here you have a small sandy beach. To me it seemed it is better to stay on the shore instead of swimming there because the waves were pretty mad there.
Fun fact I read about this playa : some times all the sand from the beach is flushed in the ocean. and then slowly the ocean actually also brings the same back, and makes it a nice beach again.
Playa Anaken
Anaken beach is so beautiful, you should not miss that. biking there would be a painful activity though, as approximately have of the18 km
is uphill, and half is downhill. I came from Anakena to Hanga roa and have to admit that was very difficult. Had to even get off bike and walk, as I am a jogger/hiker not a biker.
Anaken beach is so beautiful, you should not miss that. biking there would be a painful activity though, as approximately have of the18 km
is uphill, and half is downhill. I came from Anakena to Hanga roa and have to admit that was very difficult. Had to even get off bike and walk, as I am a jogger/hiker not a biker.
Just as everywhere on the island also here you get strong winds, thus be prepared to get sand in all possible places of your skin, in nose, ears etc. Don't even bother to pick up food at the small eateries that are located under the palm trees, in hope to have a nice lunch at the beach by the ocean. All you will experience is sand in your teeth.
I love freshly squeezed juices, and that's what I hope to get - a flavoursome glass of fresh fruit. At one of the stands I ordered maracuya juice, which was very good, thought. I wish it had more of fruit vs water /ice in it.
By the way, the best fresh fruit juice we found was in Illy cafe on the main street in Hanga roa.
By the way, the best fresh fruit juice we found was in Illy cafe on the main street in Hanga roa.
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